Underpinning in Foundations

Underpinning in Foundations

Underpinning is a method used to increase the foundation depth. This may be done in case a developer wants to add more stories to a building or in case of damage to the foundation by tree roots and this, this can be used as a corrective application. Also the adjacent construction may have foundations lower than the existing thus requiring to be lowered or basements are constructed very near an existing building thus necessitating foundation change or cracks may appear in a building up to the base thus needing a foundation remedy. Foundation underpinning may be applied to deal with all the stated instances.

The underpinning in foundations is undertaken and supervised by an engineer. These works should follow instructions keenly for safety assurance. Before any commencement of work the area of operation should be hoarded. The area to work on is measured and mapped out. The work should commence from the corners working inwards. This is done on load bearing walls only. Foundations without any load bearing walls are exempted. The defects on these walls can be corrected using most simple methods.


The underpinning in foundations starts with excavations. This should be done under a strip footing. A pit measuring a length of a thousand millimeters, a width of five hundred millimeters and depth of five hundred millimeters is dug. This is distance between the pits should be two thousand millimeters. After the excavations, mass concrete is added to the cavity. Mixes are one part cement, three parts sand and six parts aggregates. Concrete is made to a good consistence and is poured into the cavity. Use form work on the edges. Use a rod bar ensuring that the cavity under the existing foundation is filled up.


After the underpinning concrete is placed in the cavity, it is allowed to set for two days. The operation is repeated for the next bay. This continues until the required foundation is complete. Ensure that the concrete is cured thoroughly before loading it. The next thing is to break off the projecting foundation. Cut the concrete flush with the mass concrete surface. After this is completed for all the bays, soil is then back filled and compacted thoroughly. Watering with a hose is done for consolidation of the soil.

Repairing Leaking Roofs

Repairing a Leaking Roof Valley

The rainy season is here with us and by the look of things I am convinced that it is not letting go soon. Which calls for some measures to be taken where our roofs are concerned. So today we look at ways of dealing with a leaking roof valley.

Leakage in a roof valley usually occurs due to weathered panels, pan tiles or flashing which are not working properly. In any of the cases, you will have to replace some of the panels, pan tiles or slabs to mend the leak. Before starting to replace the withered material you will have to analyze the panels or tiles properly. Here are some of the steps to be followed when repairing a leaking roof valley.

Step 1 –Take Necessary Measures
When repairing the roof from leakage, you may also use the tiles or panels which are exactly the same as your previous panels or tiles. You should always chose thick, good quality tiles and panels. The pry bar should be used very smoothly; if you apply too much pressure with the pry bar, you may break additional panels or even the roof. This will end up in you having to make additional repairs. Proper placement of nails is extremely important so do not put the nails on the junction area. Make sure the nails are not too close to the roof valley since they may cause strain on the panels or tiles and hence they may break more easily.

Step 2 – Taking off the Withered Panels or Tiles
Now pull the withered panels that easily come off the roof. If the other good panels are surrounded by some withered panels, then you need to pull off the withered panels by uplifting the edges of the good panels or tiles. If the tiles or panels are fixed with the help of nails, you may use a pry bar to pop out the nails.

Step 3 – Placing the Flashing
Now place the metal flashing in its place and bend the edge of the flashing in a way so that it forms a corral which is about 25mm wide. The purpose of creating a corral is to ensure the flow of water, and the enclosure shape of the corral will enable water to easily flow down to the drain.

Step 4 – Finishing Up

Now, adjust the new panels in the valley area in such a way that they should be placed in the same direction as the already placed panels. The edges of the new panels may overlap the older ones, and for correcting that, just lift up the edges and insert 2 roofing nails on each top corner of all the new panels. Next, insert the nails with the help of a hammer. To finish your work, just adjust the overlapped panels into their respective places on the top of the new panels.

Fundi Mjanja.

Ideal Orientation

ORIENTATION
If your home is oriented to take advantage of warm sun and cooling breezes, you'll achieve greater comfort at lower cost.

In general, ideal orientation means:
you get the right amount of sun - plenty in winter and in cooler climates, not too much in summer and in warmer climates
you're protected from strong/cold winds but can take advantage of breezes to cool your home when it is too warm.

When you're designing a home or planning renovations, there'll also be other considerations such as local climate, view, terrain, vegetation, street access and noise. You'll need to balance these against the benefits you can achieve through harnessing the sun's energy for heating and breezes for cooling.

Positioning for sun
To make the most of the sun for warmth and natural light, your home's main living areas (or any rooms you use a lot) should face north. The main glazing in the house, such as windows, skylights and glass doors, should also face north. Anywhere between 20ºW - 30ºE of true north is fine.

The exact amount of heat your home gets from the sun will depend on the season, time of day, weather, local climate and rate of air pollution. Heat is greatest when the sun is at a high angle relative to the horizon (i.e. it's higher at noon than at dawn or dusk). Heat is also greater in sunny than rainy or cold seasons.

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