Building an External Stair For a Raised Ground Floor.
An external staircase is used to access the raised ground floor. This floor is raised due to terrain or design. The steps are formed from the ground to the building floor. This stair is usually not a structural member and it is formed for access onto raised buildings, sloppy lawns and from embankments on a swimming pool deck. When forming the stair on heights greater than nine hundred millimeters, then a balustrade should be erected.
Since external stairs is free standing it should have a foundation as this will make it stand firm and not sink. Finishing may be added depending on the desired effects. Most materials used include, concrete, stones, bricks, timber, steel sheets or tiles. The balustrades are constructed with steel or timber. The stair should end with a short landing. It is done at a hundred and fifty millimeters below the floor slab.
The external stairs are measured from the concrete slab edge. The height from the soil to the slab gives the number of treads and risers. A foundation is dug and concreted. The width of the stair should be about six hundred millimeters wide. A foundation wall is then erected for about two to three courses. The walls above the ground are then changed to medium dressed stones. The walls are stepped to form the stair. Hardcore is then added in between the walls.
The stones are laid raking backwards to the house. A stone is laid down first in a line. The next course starts two hundred millimeters from the end to form a step. This continues until the short landing is built. Below each course hardcore is poured and compacted. The balustrades are concreted from the ground upwards until they reach the house. Key pointing is fixed in between the joints to hold the stones together. Any desired finish is then laid over the stones for aesthetics.
Fundi Mjanja.
Tuesday, 30 April 2013
Monday, 29 April 2013
Making a Winding Staircase
Making a Winding Concrete Staircase
Winding staircases are usually constructed where the space is constricted. This is when a straight flight with a normal landing is not possible. The house design will have the upper floor with a normal height as for a straight flight stair. It is important that the head room is maintained as this will prevent hitting the upper floor slab with the head when walking up or down the stair well.
Winding concrete stair cases can be made to be economical on reinforcements and other materials. This does not need to have a full sized tread of nine hundred millimeters. The tread width can be four hundred and fifty millimeters wide and having a normal riser height. This height is usually minimum of a hundred and fifty millimeters high. The winding can be through three hundred and sixty degrees or less but this will greatly depend on the point of landing. The number of treads is eighteen including the landing.
The construction of a winding concrete stair commences by measuring the floor to floor headroom. The height of two thousand seven hundred millimeters headroom will give eighteen risers of a hundred and fifty millimeters each. Starter bars are first cast onto the ground floor slab. The intended width is four hundred and fifty millimeters wide. The form work is then made to the top of the upper floor and it is curved round up to the next floor. The height of each riser is marked onto the form sides. The reinforcements are then tied and joined with the exposed upper floor steel.
After the steel is in place, the riser form work is then fixed as marked while winding. This is repeated and adjustments done until all treads are equal to the top. Concrete is cast and vibrated. After fourteen days of curing the form work is removed and the finishing works begin . Winding handrails are fixed on both sides to the top for safety.
Winding staircases are usually constructed where the space is constricted. This is when a straight flight with a normal landing is not possible. The house design will have the upper floor with a normal height as for a straight flight stair. It is important that the head room is maintained as this will prevent hitting the upper floor slab with the head when walking up or down the stair well.
Winding concrete stair cases can be made to be economical on reinforcements and other materials. This does not need to have a full sized tread of nine hundred millimeters. The tread width can be four hundred and fifty millimeters wide and having a normal riser height. This height is usually minimum of a hundred and fifty millimeters high. The winding can be through three hundred and sixty degrees or less but this will greatly depend on the point of landing. The number of treads is eighteen including the landing.
The construction of a winding concrete stair commences by measuring the floor to floor headroom. The height of two thousand seven hundred millimeters headroom will give eighteen risers of a hundred and fifty millimeters each. Starter bars are first cast onto the ground floor slab. The intended width is four hundred and fifty millimeters wide. The form work is then made to the top of the upper floor and it is curved round up to the next floor. The height of each riser is marked onto the form sides. The reinforcements are then tied and joined with the exposed upper floor steel.
After the steel is in place, the riser form work is then fixed as marked while winding. This is repeated and adjustments done until all treads are equal to the top. Concrete is cast and vibrated. After fourteen days of curing the form work is removed and the finishing works begin . Winding handrails are fixed on both sides to the top for safety.
Thursday, 18 April 2013
How to lay a roofing felt or underlay
How to lay a roofing felt or underlay
Roofing felts or underlays are fixed before laying roofing tiles or shingles. They are used underneath the final roof covers. Felts or underlays can be polythene or bituminous in nature. The reason for using them is to prevent any rain water from passing through to the ceiling as the tiles or shingle roof covers may allow water to seep through when broken. The placing of the felt or underlay should be done by a qualified carpenter and with due diligence the ceiling and entire house is protected from any roof leaks.
The roofing felt should be free from any punctures as these are likely points that water may pass through to the ceiling of the house. Sometimes when people want to adjust aerials on the roof they have to climb up the roof. This also applies when fixing digital satellite dishes or solar water systems and this increases the likelihood of disturbing the mortar on ridges or breaking a tile. It is essential that after works on the roof covers, a thorough inspection is done to check on damages. Any broken tiles should be replaced. The ridge tile and mortar should also be checked after any work is done on the roof surface.
The roof underlay or felt is purchased in rolls. When using polythene, it should be heavy gauge and preferably laid in two sheets. This is because the temperature in the roof space may rise thus leading to damages on the felt. The bituminous felt should preferably be the sand blasted type. This is able to take higher temperatures without breaking within the roof space. The felts should be laid smooth from the ridge to the eaves. This prevent them breaking after they become brittle during the cold season.
When laying a roofing felt, ensure the surface is horizontal and level. The roof structure is first completed then polythene is laid using plastic straps. The straps are nailed first on the purlins. They should be tight to prevent sagging under water weight. They are laid in a mesh pattern. After completion the polythene or felt is laid on top. The roof battens are then nailed onto the purlins and they are laid according to the tile specifications. The laying of tiles is then done after testing for sagging or any leaks within the felt.
Fundi Mjanja
Roofing felts or underlays are fixed before laying roofing tiles or shingles. They are used underneath the final roof covers. Felts or underlays can be polythene or bituminous in nature. The reason for using them is to prevent any rain water from passing through to the ceiling as the tiles or shingle roof covers may allow water to seep through when broken. The placing of the felt or underlay should be done by a qualified carpenter and with due diligence the ceiling and entire house is protected from any roof leaks.
The roofing felt should be free from any punctures as these are likely points that water may pass through to the ceiling of the house. Sometimes when people want to adjust aerials on the roof they have to climb up the roof. This also applies when fixing digital satellite dishes or solar water systems and this increases the likelihood of disturbing the mortar on ridges or breaking a tile. It is essential that after works on the roof covers, a thorough inspection is done to check on damages. Any broken tiles should be replaced. The ridge tile and mortar should also be checked after any work is done on the roof surface.
The roof underlay or felt is purchased in rolls. When using polythene, it should be heavy gauge and preferably laid in two sheets. This is because the temperature in the roof space may rise thus leading to damages on the felt. The bituminous felt should preferably be the sand blasted type. This is able to take higher temperatures without breaking within the roof space. The felts should be laid smooth from the ridge to the eaves. This prevent them breaking after they become brittle during the cold season.
When laying a roofing felt, ensure the surface is horizontal and level. The roof structure is first completed then polythene is laid using plastic straps. The straps are nailed first on the purlins. They should be tight to prevent sagging under water weight. They are laid in a mesh pattern. After completion the polythene or felt is laid on top. The roof battens are then nailed onto the purlins and they are laid according to the tile specifications. The laying of tiles is then done after testing for sagging or any leaks within the felt.
Fundi Mjanja
Wednesday, 17 April 2013
Roofing
Understanding various Roofing Styles and Slopes
There are many different roofing styles used today. Each style is unique in its structure and design, and often times to a particular location. A specific building type can also determine, at times, the type of roof that will cover it.
The reason that certain roofing styles are used in specific locations is because they all perform differently depending on the geography. This article outlines some of the most popular roofing styles used today, and provides some details about each one.
Hipped Roof
This type of roof characterized by four uniformly pitched (that is to say sloped) sides resembling a pyramid. Though not as commonly used as some of the other types, it can be seen in different parts of the world.
Simple Style Roof
With a simple style roof, all four sloping sides meet at a ridge across the top. Here, the front ridge is usually broader than the side sections.
Pyramidal Roof
On a pyramidal roof, all four sloping sides come to a point at the top of the roof. This, of course, forms a pyramid and is reminiscent of older architecture.
Cross-Hipped Roof
On a cross-hipped roof, perpendicular wings are added to the main section of roof, forming two individual sections both with their own hipped façade. A gambrel roof is constructed so that each side has two slopes; a steeper lower slope, and a flatter upper one. This is often associated with barns.
Mansard Roof
A Mansard roof forms a double slope where two slopes are located on each of the four sides. Here, the lower slopes are steeper than the upper ones.
Shed Roof
A shed roof consists of one high pitched planes covering the entire structure. It is often used for home additions and to cover porches.
Flat Roof
A flat roof contains no slopes, and may or may not have eaves. This type is still used in many locations today.
If you are in need of a new roof, and are unsure about what types and styles will work for your home or building, consult with a professional in the field.
Where you live can make a big difference, as well as the type of building you are wishing to re-roof. There are many options available to you and good professional to assist you in making this decision.
The cost of your new roof will also vary according to the type of roof you choose and materials used. Certain roofs are more complex than others and some materials cost more than others. The exact type you choose can be a matter of personal preference or can depend on location. Before you make a decision research all the types available to you to find out which will be best. Also ask about installation costs.
Fundi Mjanja
There are many different roofing styles used today. Each style is unique in its structure and design, and often times to a particular location. A specific building type can also determine, at times, the type of roof that will cover it.
The reason that certain roofing styles are used in specific locations is because they all perform differently depending on the geography. This article outlines some of the most popular roofing styles used today, and provides some details about each one.
Hipped Roof
This type of roof characterized by four uniformly pitched (that is to say sloped) sides resembling a pyramid. Though not as commonly used as some of the other types, it can be seen in different parts of the world.
Simple Style Roof
With a simple style roof, all four sloping sides meet at a ridge across the top. Here, the front ridge is usually broader than the side sections.
Pyramidal Roof
On a pyramidal roof, all four sloping sides come to a point at the top of the roof. This, of course, forms a pyramid and is reminiscent of older architecture.
Cross-Hipped Roof
On a cross-hipped roof, perpendicular wings are added to the main section of roof, forming two individual sections both with their own hipped façade. A gambrel roof is constructed so that each side has two slopes; a steeper lower slope, and a flatter upper one. This is often associated with barns.
Mansard Roof
A Mansard roof forms a double slope where two slopes are located on each of the four sides. Here, the lower slopes are steeper than the upper ones.
Shed Roof
A shed roof consists of one high pitched planes covering the entire structure. It is often used for home additions and to cover porches.
Flat Roof
A flat roof contains no slopes, and may or may not have eaves. This type is still used in many locations today.
If you are in need of a new roof, and are unsure about what types and styles will work for your home or building, consult with a professional in the field.
Where you live can make a big difference, as well as the type of building you are wishing to re-roof. There are many options available to you and good professional to assist you in making this decision.
The cost of your new roof will also vary according to the type of roof you choose and materials used. Certain roofs are more complex than others and some materials cost more than others. The exact type you choose can be a matter of personal preference or can depend on location. Before you make a decision research all the types available to you to find out which will be best. Also ask about installation costs.
Fundi Mjanja
Wednesday, 20 March 2013
Laying Floor Screeds on Concrete Slab
Laying Floor Screeds on Concrete Slab
Floor screeds are the layers of cement and sand mix laid onto concrete as part of a finish.
Floor screeds on a concrete slab are laid when the slab concrete has been done and after all other building elements are complete. This will allow for other floor materials like wood blocks, wood parquet, laminated timber, PVC tiles and ceramic tiles to be laid. The type of material to be added determines the screed to be laid. This can be smooth or rough using a steel or wooden float respectively.
The method used to lay floor screeds on concrete is to first hack the concrete to remove laitance (the smooth cement substance appearing on concrete after casting). Once this is done a key is formed to ensure proper bonding of the new floor and concrete. The next thing is to wet the floor to prevent competition of absorption of water between the slab and screed. Pour cement slurry and rub it in to the slab to create a bonding agent between the two elements.
Mark levels for the floor screed either to give it falls or to run smooth on the concrete slab. Pour the cement and sand mix on the concrete surface. Spread evenly with a rake and pound with a rammer to give a hard surface. Level out the excess mortar with a straight edge and follow the marked out levels. Use a wood float until the surface has reached the required level. This will ensure the screed is finished rough with a wood float for ceramic tiles. However for PVC tiles or parquet, a steel float is used for adding the skimming coat on which to lay them.
A skimming coat is usually a mix of cement and water. This is applied with a steel float to make a smooth finish on the screed. It can be applied as final floor finish. This also allows timber finishes, rubber or carpets to be laid using adhesives. After deciding about the intended finish on the floor, lay the required smooth or rough finish to the specification of the type of material you want to use for finish. Allow the floor screed to dry. Cure it continuously by wetting for about a week. When completely dry it is cleaned and the next finish like parquet or PVC added to finish off.
Fundi Mjanja
For greater insights please visit our full site at www.fundimjanja.com
Floor screeds are the layers of cement and sand mix laid onto concrete as part of a finish.
Floor screeds on a concrete slab are laid when the slab concrete has been done and after all other building elements are complete. This will allow for other floor materials like wood blocks, wood parquet, laminated timber, PVC tiles and ceramic tiles to be laid. The type of material to be added determines the screed to be laid. This can be smooth or rough using a steel or wooden float respectively.
The method used to lay floor screeds on concrete is to first hack the concrete to remove laitance (the smooth cement substance appearing on concrete after casting). Once this is done a key is formed to ensure proper bonding of the new floor and concrete. The next thing is to wet the floor to prevent competition of absorption of water between the slab and screed. Pour cement slurry and rub it in to the slab to create a bonding agent between the two elements.
Mark levels for the floor screed either to give it falls or to run smooth on the concrete slab. Pour the cement and sand mix on the concrete surface. Spread evenly with a rake and pound with a rammer to give a hard surface. Level out the excess mortar with a straight edge and follow the marked out levels. Use a wood float until the surface has reached the required level. This will ensure the screed is finished rough with a wood float for ceramic tiles. However for PVC tiles or parquet, a steel float is used for adding the skimming coat on which to lay them.
A skimming coat is usually a mix of cement and water. This is applied with a steel float to make a smooth finish on the screed. It can be applied as final floor finish. This also allows timber finishes, rubber or carpets to be laid using adhesives. After deciding about the intended finish on the floor, lay the required smooth or rough finish to the specification of the type of material you want to use for finish. Allow the floor screed to dry. Cure it continuously by wetting for about a week. When completely dry it is cleaned and the next finish like parquet or PVC added to finish off.
Fundi Mjanja
For greater insights please visit our full site at www.fundimjanja.com
Tuesday, 19 March 2013
Home Construction Tips
Construction Tips
Building a home may be the most important and valuable investment that you make in your lifetime. Although you may delegate a number of services to your contractor or engineer, it is still important for you to have the best possible knowledge about the various aspects of the construction process.
If economy is your concern, you can follow these tips to help you save construction costs:
• Avoid complicated forms of shapes.
• Avoid complex system of level.
• Insist on economic structural design.
• Provide maximum possible provision for natural light and ventilation.
• Ensure efficient placement of utilities like water-supply pipes, power cables etc
• Engage trained manpower.
There are a few additional factors that should be considered during construction of the various rooms of the house:
Entrance
• The entrance is the place to entertain visitors and should be constructed in a visually appealing manner.
• For security reasons, the entrance must be constructed in such a way that it provides adequate protection to the house.
• The entrance also needs to protect the house against inhospitable weather such as harsh sunlight and excessive rains.
Living Room
• The living room should be located near to the entrance.
• The living room should preferably face the lawn, wherever possible.
• Tall windows can add a lot of visual appeal to the living room
Kitchen
• The kitchen must have adequate ventilation and natural sunlight.
• It should be adjoining the dining room.
• The working platform must be adequately wide and free from obstructions.
• The design should provide adequate space for appliances such as cooking range, dishwasher, chimney etc.
Bedroom
• The bedroom should be located away from the entrance and living room to ensure privacy.
• The bedroom should be connected with a balcony and attached bathroom, wherever possible.
• Provide adequate storage facilities in the form of cabinets
Bathroom
• The bathroom must have adequate ventilation and natural lighting.
• The bath fittings and sanitary fittings must be of a high quality to withstand regular and prolonged use.
• The bathroom floor should be 5 cm lower than the other flooring of the house.
Building a home may be the most important and valuable investment that you make in your lifetime. Although you may delegate a number of services to your contractor or engineer, it is still important for you to have the best possible knowledge about the various aspects of the construction process.
If economy is your concern, you can follow these tips to help you save construction costs:
• Avoid complicated forms of shapes.
• Avoid complex system of level.
• Insist on economic structural design.
• Provide maximum possible provision for natural light and ventilation.
• Ensure efficient placement of utilities like water-supply pipes, power cables etc
• Engage trained manpower.
There are a few additional factors that should be considered during construction of the various rooms of the house:
Entrance
• The entrance is the place to entertain visitors and should be constructed in a visually appealing manner.
• For security reasons, the entrance must be constructed in such a way that it provides adequate protection to the house.
• The entrance also needs to protect the house against inhospitable weather such as harsh sunlight and excessive rains.
Living Room
• The living room should be located near to the entrance.
• The living room should preferably face the lawn, wherever possible.
• Tall windows can add a lot of visual appeal to the living room
Kitchen
• The kitchen must have adequate ventilation and natural sunlight.
• It should be adjoining the dining room.
• The working platform must be adequately wide and free from obstructions.
• The design should provide adequate space for appliances such as cooking range, dishwasher, chimney etc.
Bedroom
• The bedroom should be located away from the entrance and living room to ensure privacy.
• The bedroom should be connected with a balcony and attached bathroom, wherever possible.
• Provide adequate storage facilities in the form of cabinets
Bathroom
• The bathroom must have adequate ventilation and natural lighting.
• The bath fittings and sanitary fittings must be of a high quality to withstand regular and prolonged use.
• The bathroom floor should be 5 cm lower than the other flooring of the house.
For more construction insights please visit our full site at www.fundimjanja.com
FundiMjanja
How to Fix Dampness or Efflorescence in Sunken Rooms
How to Fix Dampness or Efflorescence in Sunken Rooms.
Sunken rooms are those that are formed below the normal level of the house or building by design due to terrain or architectural needs. This could be the lounge, dining room or storage. Whereas these rooms are below normal levels of the building the ground is normally moist and this leads to wetness of the surrounding building materials like walls or concrete. In the event that dampness occurs, as materials used to construct walls are permeable, the internal part that is plastered and painted shows some moss like or hairy substance that is called efflorescence.
The treatment to dampness or efflorescence in sunken rooms is by water proofing the internal part of the wall. The method involves using materials that are waterproof to stop the wetness from coming into the room. The wall is hacked to remove the plaster at the depth below normal level of the building. The level could be say three hundred millimeters and this is the part that is treated. Once the plaster is removed the mortar joints are raked out and a strong paste of rich cement sand mixture is plastered back then after it’s dry, the waterproofing material is plastered on the hacked surface.
The process is repeated again the following day and the third day new plaster is done to the protected wall. About one week period is needed for curing by rubbing or using a brush to wet the plaster continuously for the cement to achieve maximum strength. Painting to the wall which is now efflorescence or dampness free is done. This whole process should take at least three days for waterproofing and one to two weeks before painting is done.
Fundi Mjanja
Please visit our full site at www.fundimjanja.com for more information
Sunken rooms are those that are formed below the normal level of the house or building by design due to terrain or architectural needs. This could be the lounge, dining room or storage. Whereas these rooms are below normal levels of the building the ground is normally moist and this leads to wetness of the surrounding building materials like walls or concrete. In the event that dampness occurs, as materials used to construct walls are permeable, the internal part that is plastered and painted shows some moss like or hairy substance that is called efflorescence.
The treatment to dampness or efflorescence in sunken rooms is by water proofing the internal part of the wall. The method involves using materials that are waterproof to stop the wetness from coming into the room. The wall is hacked to remove the plaster at the depth below normal level of the building. The level could be say three hundred millimeters and this is the part that is treated. Once the plaster is removed the mortar joints are raked out and a strong paste of rich cement sand mixture is plastered back then after it’s dry, the waterproofing material is plastered on the hacked surface.
The process is repeated again the following day and the third day new plaster is done to the protected wall. About one week period is needed for curing by rubbing or using a brush to wet the plaster continuously for the cement to achieve maximum strength. Painting to the wall which is now efflorescence or dampness free is done. This whole process should take at least three days for waterproofing and one to two weeks before painting is done.
Fundi Mjanja
Please visit our full site at www.fundimjanja.com for more information
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