Choosing Paint Colors for Different Rooms

Choosing Paint Colors for Different Rooms

Posted By: Designer Mjanja Blog on 7th of November 2013

Paint color is widely known to have quite a considerable effect on many elements in a room’s design scheme. The color applied on the walls, trim and ceiling can affect the atmosphere and mood while also reflecting the overall design style. Paint color can be used to highlight or emphasize architectural features or downplay them when you want a different effect. Having these factors on mind can help you choose the best colors even in challenging rooms with unusual design features such as living rooms with lofts. Room Size Emphasis The design of a high ceiling living room with is similar to that of a great room.  If you choose to emphasize this design feature, paint the room in very light colors such as shades of white or beige. White colors with cool undertones of blue or green will make the walls and ceiling appear to recede thus emphasizing the spaciousness. Pale shades of blue or green will have the same effect. White colors with warmer undertones of yellow or pink will lessen the effect slightly. Room Size Downplay If you aim to lessen the effect of a large space and create more of a warm, enclosed space, choose a darker and warmer color. Muted hues in golden yellow, orange or red will make the walls appear to advance. Dark brown will warm the room and make it appear smaller. Dark blue or green can make the room feel hollow. When aiming to downplay the room size care must be taken when it comes to choice of the color to apply as a dark wall color is harder to change should you decide that the color doesn’t look appealing anymore. If you use a darker color and decide to change it to a lighter one you will first have to cover the dark color with primer before painting the walls a lighter color. Try on a dark color by painting just one wall and observe the color effect under different lighting. If the color appears to be overwhelming on all the walls, keep the painted wall as an accent wall and choose a lighter shade in the same tone or a coordinating tone for the rest of the walls. Design Style Consider choosing the paint color that will enhance the design and style of the building. Most often go for bold and brighter colors when dealing with modern styles of architecture. For traditional home styles go for deep or dark color as they add some sense of sophistication to the home. Coastal, beach or cottage-style homes are often painted in light or pastel colors. Rustic and country homes tend to embrace natural colors with an emphasis on nature. Neutral color schemes are commonly found in contemporary homes and are quite satisfying to the sight when blended with accents rich in color and texture.

Interior Lighting Part 2

Interior Lighting Part 2

Posted By: Designer Mjanja Blog on 31st of October 2013

In this article we continue highlighting the common lighting mistakes to avoid and give some tips on how get you house lighting right;  Using incandescent or halogen sources without dimming While it is common for us to find ways of retrofitting lighting with more efficient, longer lived light sources than incandescent we should not forget that this type of lighting is still a viable and important part of lighting in a residence, provided it is dimmable. By dimming, we decrease energy and heat output, and we lengthen lamp life. Non- incorporation of Ambient, Task and Accent Lighting Lighting designers understand that all well-designed spaces incorporate different types of light. Ambient light is general lighting for walking around, conversing, and identifying objects. Task lighting provides higher, more concentrated lighting for tasks such as chopping vegetables, shaving, or reading. Accent light is used to highlight artwork or architectural features, such as the beautiful glass tile you’ve specified in the bath or the ceramic collection your client will showcase in open shelves in the kitchen. Combining all three types of light gives greater functionality, interest, and likelihood that you will have sufficient lighting. Neglecting to control different types of light separately For maximum efficiency and flexibility, each type of light should be controlled separately and any incandescent or halogen light or dimmable LED's should be dimmed. Controlling multiple sources can be achieved by the old school method of multiple light switches, but there are many more sophisticated ways to achieve control. From a simple programmable wall box system for single room control with preset scenes, to wireless controls that generate their own power and can be reprogrammed from a laptop. Controlling the lighting yields energy savings combined with the right amount and type of light for different times and uses. High Ceiling Recessed Down lights for Ambient light This results in a lot of wasted light and a very dark space. Light originating at high ceilings needs to have a focused tight beam spread with enough center beam candle power, such as that from a ceramic metal halide or high wattage halogen source. Better yet, using wall-mounted or pendant sources to reflect light off a ceiling surface often provides much better illumination than punching a lot of holes for recessed down lights. Decorating with light Decorating with light fixtures, or choosing fixtures based on how they look rather than their light output, performance and distribution often results in a waste of energy and less than optimal light output. For assistance with architectural light fixture choices, consider hiring a professional lighting designer who can transform your space through light, while providing adequate task lighting and often saving energy. On the Fundi Mjanja website, such professionals are listed under Interior Designers and can be found on the following link; http://www.fundimjanja.com/index.php?option=com_category&view=components&Itemid=122&cartId=33

Interior Lighting part 1

Interior Lighting

Posted By: Designer Mjanja Blog on 24th of October 2013

Interior designers are often called upon to give input about lighting in residential environments. In trying to tackle a lighting dilemma, many fixtures get specified in living areas, kitchens and baths that waste energy and do not get light where it is needed most. These ineffective specifications are often repeated as homeowners are unsure of lighting solutions and tricks of the trade. Sometimes knowing what to do can help make you look like a pro. This article highlights the common lighting mistakes to avoid and gives some tips on how to do it right.  Over doing Recessed Down lights This is one of the most common errors that lighting design professionals see. Builder spec versions of can lights are quite affordable and people often assume that laying them out in a regular grid gets light everywhere. Unfortunately, this is not so. The optics of inexpensive can lights often allow only slightly more than half the lumen output of the lamp to escape. In addition, can lights, unless they are adjustable or wall wash fixtures, typically don't put sufficient light on vertical surfaces, which is where the eye perceives light. With an array of cans, we might waste nearly half our watts and still have a space that feels like a cave because the walls are dark. Kitchen Task lights  There are many better ways to light the counter, and one of them is to use fluorescent or LED task lights under the upper cabinets. If your kitchen design lacks upper cabinets over some work surfaces, don't worry. This is a situation where wall-mounted or ceiling recessed adjustable fixtures with the right lamp make all the difference. Adding several low voltage halogen fixtures with a narrow flood beam distribution and focusing them on the task area will do the trick. Remember to choose your fluorescent or LED color temperature wisely. Down lights without Side lights Standing directly under a down light, without any light at the sides of the face, creates exaggerated and unflattering shadows. In the bathroom, using a down light over the sink is fine to accent the expensive polished nickel faucet you've specified, but it is insufficient for tasks like shaving, tweezing, and applying makeup. For this, we need light at the sides of the mirror at eye level to minimize shadows and provide even distribution. This can be achieved with sconces flanking the mirror.

Reducing Weight in Suspended Concrete Floors using Hollow Blocks

Reducing Weight in Suspended Concrete Floors using Hollow Blocks

Posted By: Fundi Mfalme Blog on 10th of October 2013

Suspended concrete floors are found in storeyed buildings. The self-weight of concrete without additional live loads is great but buildings where the spans are large, weight reduction is done to avoid buckling of the floor. Buckling is where the concrete sags at the middle. The concrete is laid the same way but hollow blocks are added to reduce weight. The blocks are hollow in the middle and the reinforcements are laid in between them then concrete is added and vibrated to hold them together.The top concrete is about seventy six millimeters (three inch) thick. The suspended concrete floor hollow blocks are either clay or concrete blocks. The blocks are two hundred to two hundred and fifty millimeters thick. The blocks that are at the beginning and at the end of a row are blocked on one side to avoid concrete from flowing inside the blocks. The ceilings from this kind of floors are flat and the ordinary down stand beams are not visible from below the slab soffits making these kind of floors ideal over big rooms like lounges, dinning and offices. When the suspended slab form work is ready, the laying of the hollow blocks commences. The external beams are then laid into the forms. The internal beams for this kind of floors are laid within the slab thickness. These beams will span from the external ones across the room to the other end. The beams are also laid where walls are to be built on the slab. The hollow blocks are then laid on the form work in between the beams. They are arranged in rows of nine hundred millimeters wide with a spacing of a hundred millimeters after every nine hundred millimeters (blocks) row. Once the hollow blocks are laid, the gaps in between are fitted with reinforcements. This bars span from the end beams and they are to hold the concrete together. A mesh fabric is then laid on top of the hollow blocks. After this is done concreting work commences. The concrete should be well vibrated to ensure the blocks are held tightly together. The concreting is done normally and is leveled and made smooth. Curing is done for twenty one days before stripping off the formwork to pave way for plaster finishes.

Clay Tile Roof Repair

Clay Tile Roof Repair

Posted By: Fundi Mfalme Blog on 17th of October 2013

A clay tile roof is often susceptible to leaks caused by various problems either with the tile itself or by the method of installation hence the method employed in the repair of a leak will often differ depending on the cause of the problem. More than any other roof type, the traditional tile roof is an architectural feature deserving of special attention because the texture, color, and play of light and shadow impart a distinctive character to a building that no other roof type can match. Yet tens of thousands of tile roofs have been lost in recent decades because of the ignorance or laziness of low-level roof repair contractors. So it is of paramount importance to have your tile roof fixed by a qualified and experienced roofer. Leaking in clay roof tiles may be due to several faults. Some leakage problems go beyond the roof clay tile being related to the other aspects of the roofing or installation methods. Some of the common problems that relate to leakage in clay tiles are: Defective or worn out waterproof membrane Collection of debris in the roof valley that cause water to accumulate on the valley Cracked tiles Broken tiles The defects that may result in a leaking clay tile roof can be dealt by a careful consideration of the following measures; Fixing a Membrane More than often the leakage may be as result of defective in the waterproof membrane. If such is the cause of the leakage then the waterproof membrane will need to be replaced. This is done by removing all the existing tiles and replacing the old membrane with a new one. Then the roof is re-tiled. This must be done by the help of a professional to avoid a re-occurrence of a similar problem in future. Removing the Debris It is a common occurrence for the roof valleys especially the closed ones to collect a lot of debris. More often than not, this can cause leaks in clay roof tiles. In order to remove the debris such that there is no more leakage, you will need to remove the tiles from the valley, clean out the area, and then reinstall the tile. You may also need to consider converting the closed roof valleys into open ones to avoid debris collection in the future. Fixing a Crack If you find that there are fine cracks in your tiles, you can repair the crack by applying a crack sealant to the tile to deal with the problem. When applying the crack sealant allow  it to spread over the entire tile and let it dry. Fixing Broken Tiles Tiles that are broken or have large cracks need to be replaced in order to fix the leak. For this, you will need to remove all damaged tiles. The removal must be carefully done to avoid causing damage to the good tiles next to the broken ones. If your roof is old, chances are your tiles have been fixed using mortar. If that is the case, place the new tiles and use the mortar to seal them in place. Metal Flashing In some cases the leakage in the roof might be as a result of failure of metal flashing. If the metal flashing is the source of the leakage then it's possible to lift a limited number of tiles, replace all flashing and re-lay the original tiles. During this process, you may also find some broken or cracked tiles. (An experienced roofer can tell by gentle tapping whether a tile retains its structural integrity or has hidden fissures.) Cracked or leaking tiles should be replaced at this time. Work on an existing tile roof must be done by an experienced roof tile contractor; an inexperienced contractor may break more tiles than he or she replaces.

Fixing a Tile Roof Underlay

Fixing a Tile Roof Underlay

Posted By: Fundi Mfalme Blog on 24th of October 2013

Roofing underlays are used underneath the final tile roof covers. They are fixed before laying roofing tiles or shingles so as to prevent any rain water from passing through to the ceiling as the tiles or shingle roof covers may allow water to seep through when broken.  Roofing underlays can be polythene or bituminous in nature or as it is common nowadays plain metal sheets or corrugated iron sheets. The placing of the felt or underlay should be done by a qualified carpenter and with due diligence as this will help to safeguard the ceiling and entire house from any roof leaks. For the roofing felt to function effectively care must be taken when laying it to ensure that it is free from any punctures as these are likely points that water may pass through to the ceiling of the house. When using polythene, it should be heavy gauge and preferably laid in two sheets. This is because the temperature in the roof space may rise thus leading to damages on the felt. The bituminous felt should preferably be the sand blasted type. This is able to take higher temperatures without breaking within the roof space. The felts should be laid smooth from the ridge to the eaves. This prevent them breaking after they become brittle during the cold season. Metal iron sheet has become the most preferred roof underlay in the recent years as it is more durable and reliable. In comparison to polythene underlays it is less susceptible to damage during installation thus preventing the likelihood of any leakages after installation. It is durable, wind- and fire-resistant and practically maintenance-free, but it must be installed properly by a qualified metal roof carpenter as its installation requires specialized skills. However, the options and installation process for metal underlay are largely the same as shingles or other roofing materials. When laying polythene roofing felt, ensure the surface is horizontal and level. The roof structure is first completed then polythene is laid using plastic straps. The straps are nailed on the purlins in a mesh pattern and they should be tight to prevent sagging under water weight.  After completion the polythene underlay is laid on top then the roof battens are nailed onto the purlins according to the tile specifications.  The laying of tiles is then done after testing for sagging or any leaks within the felt.

Installing a paved driveway

A home or an office driveway or walkway will always having a lasting impression on visitors. Block pavers can make the difference between an ordinary walkway and stunning curb appeal. Curb appeal will do wonders if you are trying to sell a house, it will force the potential home buyer to stop and take notice. 

When choosing a driveway or patio, there are many choices available. Concrete is so brittle and breaks so easily while asphalt is not at all pretty. Gravel is cheap, but needs replacing often and finding gravel in the lawn with your feet or the lawnmower can be uncomfortable and dangerous. One of the commonly used ways of beautifying the walkway, driveway or patio that will not disappoint is by use of paving blocks. They come in so many colors, designs and sizes and allowing the owner or contractor choices of patterns and edgings to make a driveway or patio a piece of art. Repairs, if necessary, require no more than picking up a broken paver and replacing it. There's no better material than pavers for your driveway or patio.

To avoid frustration and wasted time and ensure that your driveway turns out as beautifully as possible it's important to carefully follow the directions when installing the pavers;

Prepare the base

Mark the area and excavate it to a depth of 4 inches (100mm) for patios and sidewalks. If the area is being laid with paving blocks for the first time the topsoil has to be removed before final marking for excavation. In case the topsoil is large, you can rent a topsoil remover to lighten the work of removing it. Save the topsoil heap in one spot as it can become handy in future for landscaping purposes. Special care should be taken in case of cotton soil; all of it should be removed and disposed. Paving blocks should never be laid on unstable ground.

When working on an existing patio or driveway remove the existing one by use of a sledgehammer and pick axe to break up the old sidewalk. The work will be easier if you create gaps or holes in the pavement to allow you to break and pry up the pieces.

If you are paving a driveway, excavate at least 10 to 14 inches (250 – 350mm) so you can make a paver base of at least 8 to 12 inches (200 – 300mm) of road gravel, crushed rock or quarry chips. You can easily get the quarry chips or gravel for the paver base from local quarries.

Rake out and compact the base material

Compacting is the most important part of any paving project. Place enough gravel to a depth within 3 inches (75mm) below the finished grade of the pavers. Allow for a slight grade so water will not puddle in your driveway.  A well compacted base will always ensure that the driveway or patio withstands the pressure imposed on it by heavy loads.

Add sand to a depth of 2 inches (75mm) below final paver grade and screed to a smooth surface. This grade will allow for settling allowance during final compaction. Keep material smooth during installation.

Setting the Pavers on the Base

When you finally starting laying the paving blocks on the finished base, start with a straight edge or corner. Edging should rise just slightly above the walkway, so keep the sand about 2 inches below the top of the edging.  Use a string line to keep the pavers straight. If you are paving a large, wide area, begin at a center line and work toward each edge. This helps keep the pavers better aligned. Keep the pattern in alignment. Always place all full pavers before doing any edge cuts.

When you are finished setting all pavers in place, sprinkle sand over the entire surface and compact using a compactor plate.The compactor plate helps in vibrating and running sand into joints.  After compacting is done, fill edge joints with concrete if they are twenty five percent less than a full block.
Edges or road curb should be dry before laying any blocks as they could easily give way due to compaction. Once work is complete sweep off excess sand and debris Sweep off the excess sand. If you wish, you can apply a sealer to enhance the color and give it a wet look. Care should be taken in applying the sealer so that the paved block surface does not become slippery.